Le Mindu was a child prodigy in the French Hair Academy and became known for his experimental styles whilst in Berlin. Accordingly, his Spring Summer 2010 collection was more artwork than fashion, with Eiffel Tower hats and giant sculptures made entirely of hair. A black bob was moulded into a huge helmet, both futuristic and primitive, whilst blonde extensions were hung in tiers over PVC for head to toe hair.

Gemma Slack was more subtle in her approach, and began with bandage style bikinis and bodies of slashed leather. Leotards had cone shaped bodices, recalling Gaultier’s infamous Madonna corset. This was Slack’s second collection for Blow Presents, and established her signature of using unusual materials in tailoring. Swing skirts were stiff and solid, constructed from steel sheets bolted together. Metal neck pieces took inspiration from the rings worn by Burmese women, but fit more like the Elizabethan collars worn by dogs after surgery.

Lina Osterman’s collection was slick and androgynous, the male and female models almost indistinguishable behind gauze masks. Once again, hair made a statement, with sharply cut white blonde or brunette wigs over heavily layered black and navy. The collection toyed with traditional tailoring; tuxedo jackets given a modern edge with exaggerated panels and a relaxed, draping cut. Osterman graduated from Central Saint Martins last year, and has since worked with Jens Laugesen, whose influence was apparent here.

Despite reported drama backstage after models were unable to squeeze into the carefully constructed garments, Iris Van Herpen triumphed with her complex craftsmanship. Rubber and PVC was intricately curled, transforming simple shapes into heavily embellished forms around the body. These sculpted spirals are produced in collaboration with artist Bart Hess, and inspired by radiation waves. Shards of sequins shimmered under the harsh lights, which also highlighted reflective panels built into some of the clothes. The ornate construction took its toll however, and the slow pace left many feeling, unfairly, unenthused.

This exciting and unpredictable show has reinforced London’s reputation as a centre of groundbreaking design, attracting the best of new European talent and offering a rare platform for innovation.

1. glowingdoll commented on Wednesday, 23 September

   Quite frankly, I’m disappointed that a dress made of baguettes wasn’t made to go with the Eiffel tower head piece.