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12 March 2010
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Kinder's Spirit

By Imogen Eveson published on Sunday, 20 September
Last season the buzz was all about Kinder Aggugini; formerly the industry’s best-kept secret. With his new collection, Loss of Innocence, the Italian-born wunderkind steps into the spotlight.
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Another Central Saint Martins graduate and former ‘ghost’ designer for the likes of John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood and Versace, Aggugini staged his first London show in February to a select audience of 200 at a member’s only club.

This time round, he has stepped out of the shadows to stage a wonderfully dark fairytale in the stately surrounds of Somerset House and should prepare for the buyer’s feeding frenzy to ensue.

Based around the themes of lost innocence and naivety, the crux of the collection lies on pretty children’s dresses, ripped apart at the seams and rendered darker and adult. Juxtaposing fabrics are inserted, creating an eclectic tapestry of broken polka dots and humbug stripes, snakeskin and tribal print, florals, devore and lace.

The palette stays more or less in the remit of black, white, red and pink: a lacquer-like gold shimmer dusting the odd striped top or floor skimming gown.

The whimsy of this summer collection is tempered with military inspired jackets in houndstooth, gold and red brocade, or block colours; some buttoned austerely up to the neck. Oversized Miss Muffet hats, courtesy of millinery maestro Stephen Jones, topped a few outfits off to great effect.

A perennial inspiration for Aggugini is the fictitious marriage of Coco Chanel and Sid Vicious and certainly he marries effortless elegance and irreverence with ease.

This evidently vivid imagination will reach boiling point next week too, with the opening of the Kinder Aggugini Flash Store: a candlelit basement boutique recalling the ‘Old Curiosity Shop’ of yore. One-off garments and special archive pieces will nestle alongside signed photographs, artists’ paintings and Persian rugs in the elegant underbelly of Mayfair.

Clearly a man with a vision, and, according to the polka dot press release, “a true modern craftsman.” Expect to hear a lot more on the Kinder Aggugini front from now on.

The Kinder Aggugini Flash Store will be open from 24th September to 31st October, opening Thursdays to Saturday at Lower Ground, 35 South Audley Street, Mayfair, London W1.

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